Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Board culture




Out of the water, I am nothing.

--Duke Kahanamoku










The ocean just off of Pacific Coast Highway where it meets Sunset Boulevard isn't an area known for big waves. Still, you can always see a large group of surfers, sitting patiently on their boards, waiting for a swell. We refer to them as 'bobbers', although the heart of surfing is showing up, getting in the water and waiting. I enjoy the surfing photographs of Don James; he captures the solitary nature of the sport.

No comments: